Craftsmanship | Culture

Oliver Peoples Resort 2021: Bridging the Vintage Aesthetic

4 Min Reading

OP-1955 with his case

Bridging the aesthetics of mid-century modern furniture with vintage-inspired Oliver Peoples eyewear.

“Vintage design plays an essential role in our lives today,” remarks modern design gallerist, Dobrinka Salzman. “Whether it is vintage cars, vintage furniture or vintage fashion, it is the nostalgic connection to a glamorous past that inspires us to create new designs,” she continues. In Manhattan’s art-oriented West Chelsea neighborhood, Salzman’s atelier sets the stage for the Oliver Peoples 2021 Resort Collection campaign. Captured by photographer, Alice Gao, the still life images do more than underscore the vintage references woven into Oliver Peoples eyewear—they reinforce the unifying aesthetic value of vintage design.

Alice Gao wears Piercy in Gold.

Piercy is an optical with a uniquely constructed bridge.

Beyond the shared visual signifiers of Salzman’s covetable pieces and the Oliver Peoples frames, other poetic and compulsory attributes link eyewear and furniture. First, of course, functionality informs the design processes of both. To design stylish items for frequent use means to evaluate desired function and evolve from there. This is where the line is drawn between design and art. Designers do not envision a chair that cannot be sat upon. They craft one to coincide with need. Otherwise, it would be pure abstraction. Though artistic, it would exist without intention.
It’s this function-first design approach that makes vintage furniture so appealing as an inspiration for eyewear—especially when considering pieces from the ‘50s and ‘60s, which are defined by simple design, where the shape itself is the décor and no extra embellishments are needed to make a statement. Suffice it to say, furniture of that era defined a certain aesthetic and lifestyle, especially in California. It was modern, casual but still very tasteful. This lifestyle finds itself expressed in the Oliver Peoples world—in the product, the store design and the images of this campaign, too.

Original film of the Oliver Peoples OP-506
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Nisen featured beside an Andrée and Michel Hirlet ceramic sculpture.

Gao recognizes these shared values and the allure of vintage in particular. “I think knowing that an item has lived previous lives gives it much more depth,” she says. “And I love the kinds of stories and conversations that vintage pieces can invoke. Plus, vintage provides the context for so much of the ‘modern’ design we see now. It’s always nice to see the original.”
More than staging Oliver Peoples eyewear among mid-century furniture, Gao’s shoot bridges design elements between frame and furniture. She meticulously pairs forms.
“There was no shortage of beautiful textures and shapes at Dobrinka Salzman, so the main decision for each shot was looking for a backdrop that would complement the frames well and not overpower them,” Gao says of establishing each shot. “For the most part, I looked for a simple color story or moved around a few things to create more of a thematic color palette. I liked the idea of seeing just hints of some of the furniture and art pieces, so, for people who really know their stuff, they’d get it instantly despite the subtlety.” One may notice, for instance, an icon of modern design, the Pierre Jeanneret Chandigarh armchair.

O’Malley sitting atop of a Jean Prouvé Chair, 1950s.

Alice wears O’Malley in Black-DTBK Gradient.

In certain moments, the scenes feel removed from time. Oliver Peoples’ new classic Nisen feels at home atop the pristine wood of a beautiful George Nakashima cabinet and beside the undulating pattern of two lamps. Outside of the imagery, subtle details will bring the Nisen to life for its wearer, including the custom corewire. For the refined Piercy, discrete magnificence mirrors the exquisite fabric it rests upon. This includes elegant filigree on the ultra-thin temple and coin-edge detailing. For Resort 2021, the Maxson frame joins the O’Malley line, differentiating itself through its higher-arched bridge and relaxed, washed lenses.
Gao captures the Maxson in Bark, on the complementary natural grain of wood. The iconic O’Malley, too, makes several appearances, often on structural, geometric chairs.
Each image appears to radiate light in addition to the innate warmth of the vintage design within. “Light is everything,” Gao says, “and can make or break a photo. Good light can create the entire feeling and soul of a photo. With still life, it’s rare that I’m able to use available light—spaces are unpredictable, the sun is unpredictable—so I bring tools with me to create the light I want. It can be incredibly frustrating but equally as rewarding.” Though she feels she’s only just begun to learn how to harness light, her skill is evident within Salzman’s gallery.

Maxson captured by a Christopher Baker light fixture.

Oliver Peoples’ first advertising campaign
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Nisen photographed in front of John Born vessels.

“I love how Oliver Peoples constantly recreates vintage styles that make us feel ‘oh so chic’ on a daily basis,” Salzman adds, noting that she’d be loyal for life. Oliver Peoples not only sees vintage style resonating in the 21st century, the brand continues to translate their particular vintage inspirations into the next generation of classic eyewear. And as with vintage furniture, Oliver Peoples Resort 2021 collection will continue to look good while in use, for decades to come.

WORDS: David Graver

PHOTOS: Alice Gao

Styles featured: